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Articles and Advice |
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| Make your short sale shine By Dian Hymer Short sales, where the lender agrees to take less than amount due to them, have tended to sell for less than similar homes in the area. One reason for this is that short-sale listings usually don't look as good as the competition. Another reason is that short sales require lender approval. Last year, lenders often took three to six months to respond to a short-sale offer. If the response was no, the buyer was out looking for another home after having wasted a lot of time. Many buyers who expected short sales to be good deals shied away from them altogether after having a few bad experiences. Subsequently, the Obama administration put pressure on lenders to do more short sales and fewer foreclosures. Now a process that was laborious is much easier to navigate. Before you put your house on the market, contact your lender or lenders to let them know you can no longer afford to keep the house and you will be selling it. Also tell your lender that due to the decline in property values in your area, you may not be able to sell for enough to pay off the mortgage. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Lenders usually won't work on a short sale until there is an accepted offer on the property. But doing a little ground work with your lender(s) can assist the process. Find out how long it will take them to process a short sale. This kind of information will be important to a prospective buyer. If buyers know they can expect a response from the lender in 30 to 45 days and not four to six months, they'll be more inclined to make an offer. Try to work out a loan modification with your lender before you put your house on the market. If your lender agrees to lower the loan amount, your listing will be more attractive to buyers because the lender won't have to take as large a shortfall in order to approve the sale. Most lenders won't allow credits from seller to buyer in a short-sale transaction. It's a good idea to have presale inspections done before you put your house on the market. The more information a buyer has about the property before an offer is made the better the chance that you won't end up in a situation where the buyer discovers defects that weren't previously disclosed and wants credits as compensation. In most cases, it's worthwhile to make your house look as good as possible before putting it on the market. This will bring you a higher price, which reduces the amount you are short. This will make it easier for the lender to approve the sale. You'll need broad marketing exposure to attract a wide range of buyers. It's important to hire an agent who is willing to put the time and effort in both marketing your property and dealing with your lenders. Your agent should be a good communicator who will keep all of the parties informed about the status of the sale. It's important to consult with your attorney and accountant to review any documents that the lender requires before closing the transaction. Some lenders will require the seller to pay back the amount that the seller is short. A seller does not need to agree, but this could cause the transaction to fall apart. You could owe tax on the amount of money the lender forgave, though the Internal Revenue Service does offer tax relief for those who lose their homes through foreclosure or short sales between 2007 and 2012. It takes a lot of patience with him and perseverance to get through a short-sale transaction. However, a short sale might negatively impact your credit for two to three years; it would be five to seven years if you let the property go to foreclosure. THE CLOSING: If possible, try to negotiate with the lender to salvage your good credit. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist. |
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| Multiple home inspections pay off By Dian Hymer Buyers often assume that if a house is new there's no need to inspect it. What could possibly be wrong with a brand-new house? You'd be surprised. Following the 1991 firestorm that destroyed thousands of homes in the hills above Oakland, Calif., contractors from around the country moved into the area to take advantage of rebuilding opportunities. The planning department was overwhelmed. Inspectors rushed from one job to another. Problems that showed up mere years after these new homes were completed were often due to faulty installation of windows and doors, improperly flashed decks over finished living areas, and lack of proper ventilation. One elderly homeowner rebuilt her home in Oakland's Upper Rockridge neighborhood after the fire. The house looked great, better than it had looked before the fire. However, it wasn't built as well. When the owner decided to move to a retirement facility, she sold the house. To her surprise, the termite report revealed that the one-story front stair system was severely damaged by wood pests and needed to be replaced at a cost of more than $20,000. The waterproof membrane had not been installed properly; there was no flashing and no ventilation. Water penetrated the stair system. The area under the stairs couldn't dry out. The damp wood frame provided an ideal environment for wood pests to do their damage. Several years after rebuilding, another homeowner discovered that the doors, windows, and terraces hadn't been properly installed. The house exterior, windows, exterior doors, and terrace had to be rebuilt. The homeowner successfully sued the contractor, but it was a time-consuming hassle, and necessitated moving out of the house during the rebuilding process. Many real estate agents provide forms for their clients to read and sign. These include strongly worded advisories to inspect the property thoroughly. Many inspection reports specify what is and is not included n the inspection. For example, wood-destroying pest (also known as "termite") reports usually don't cover mold. Home inspectors often don't inspect spas, irrigation systems or security systems. And they usually don't check the permit record. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Most buyers don't read reports and contract documents carefully. It is important to do so. This means: Read over every word, including disclaimers. If an inspector or your agent recommends a further inspection, follow through and hire the appropriate professional to check out the system. Check directly with the local planning or zoning department for answers to pertinent questions that might affect your decision to buy a property. A further inspection could yield good news, as home inspectors tend to err on the side of caution to limit their liability. For example, one home inspector who inspected a home in the Oakland Hills reported that the older roof needed to be replaced and recommended consulting a licensed roofing contractor. The roofer said the roof needed repairs but didn't need replacing. In another instance, the buyers' inspector reported that the furnace needed repair to keep hot air from escaping into an area that didn't need heat. The seller recently paid a heating contractor to make repairs to the furnace. The work was still under warranty. There was no repair cost incurred by either the buyers or sellers. Failing to complete a further inspection can have serious consequences. You could have a difficult time getting financial help from the sellers after closing if a further inspection was recommended and you did not have it done. Some buyers don't want to pay the cost of a further inspection, especially if the cost is high. In some cases, the sellers might be willing to share the expense of a further inspection with you. THE CLOSING: Weigh the cost of the further inspection against the possible cost to repair the defect. The cost may be minimal seen in that context. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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| CHANGING SPACES Interior Redesign & Staging By Jill Denton For more information on One-Day Interior Redesign, Decor Consultations, Color Consultations and Staging go to www.jilldenton.com or just give me a call! 925-998-7747 |
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| Not all woods absorb stain the same By Paul Bianchina Q: First-time homeowner and first-time stainer here! I had a small porch made out of untreated wood built last summer that I would now like to stain. I like the redwood look I see throughout the neighborhood, what I think of as the most common color of stain around! I purchased two sample packets of stain, both by Olympic. One was a toner and one was a semi-transparent version of the same redwood color. I applied them both to a piece of wood leftover from my porch and they both went on like a watercolor paint -- very thin, very clear and not deep colors at all. I feel it colored it maybe only a shade darker than what the natural wood is. I do realize this wood is not the optimal wood to build with, but it has got to be stainable! (Please tell me it is!) Do you have any suggestions as far as getting a deep red/brown coloring to soak in the wood and give it the rich look? Is there something I'm doing wrong? Is there a better stain for this type of wood, or do I just start considering paint? Any suggestions would be great. A: No need to start considering paint just yet. All wood is made up of fibers and cells in different degrees and configurations. The more "open" the cell structure, the more readily it will absorb liquids, such as stain. So all woods will accept stain to some degree, some more than others. Some woods -- pine and oak for example -- will even absorb stain very differently within the same piece. Other factors include how wet or dry the wood is, how weathered it is, how smoothly sanded, etc. One of the first things you need to do is determine what type of wood was used to build the porch. You mentioned that it was not pressure-treated and it is apparently not redwood. Fir, hemlock, cedar, and pine would be some other common porch woods, but there are others as well. I would suggest that you either ask the person who built the porch, or take a sample down to your local lumberyard and ask one of the people there to identify it for you. Stick with a dedicated lumberyard, not a home center. Armed with that knowledge, I want you to next go to a paint store -- again, a dedicated paint store, not a home center. Show them the type of wood you're working with and the color you're hoping to achieve, and they can work with you to select the proper type of stain and the proper color, as well as giving you tips on how to apply it. Bring the wood sample with you as well, and they may be able to test it for you to see if the color is going to come out the way you want. Q: I am going to be building a cover over my deck. I am going to have to put it about 15-18 inches up on the existing roof (about the back of the eve) in order to get the slope needed for drainage. I have been looking for a bracket that will hold a ledger board up slightly off the roof, so water can go under and not rot the board. I have not found a bracket that will do this. The closest thing I have found is a basic 90-degree, one-inch-wide, angle bracket that you can find in any hardware store, but I do not think it will be strong enough. Any suggestions? A: Because you are looking at a bracket that needs to have the proper slope to match both the house roof and the roof over the deck, you may not find a stock item that fits exactly. I would suggest you check out the Simpson Strong-Tie Web site at www.strongtie.com. Simpson is probably the largest manufacturer of metal hangers, brackets and connectors for the construction industry, and if anyone will have it they will. If you find something in their online catalog that will work, just jot down the stock number -- and if your local lumberyard or hardware store doesn't have it, they can order it for you. If you can't find anything there, you'll have to have ones made. If you can make a simple sketch of what you need, any local welder will be able to weld or bend brackets to your specifications, and the cost should be pretty reasonable. I'll also suggest another alternative. Install a ledger board flat on the roof, parallel with the eaves, and secure it to the roof by screwing it down into the rafters. Cut the ends of the deck covering rafters on an angle so that they lay down flat on the ledger and create the angle of slope you want for the roof over the deck, then fasten the rafters to the ledger board. Install your roofing on the deck cover, and then install a sheet metal flashing that tucks under the house roofing and goes over the deck cover roofing. Water coming down off the roof will be channeled up onto the deck cover, where it will then run off. Since the ledger is completely under cover, it won't get wet. For a little additional assurance, you can use pressure-treated lumber for the ledger. |
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| Tips for avoiding surprise defects By Dian Hymer A homebuyer in the hills above Oakland, Calif., recently closed on a home that matched her wish list almost perfectly, which is as good as it gets. Before closing, the new home was inspected and no major defects were discovered. The buyer had plans for upgrading, starting with removing all the wall-to-wall carpets. But when the carpets were pulled up, the house began to smell of cat urine. The new owner called her agent, who recommended several people who have experience eradicating pet odor. Within a week, the odor was gone; the buyer was happy and continued renovating her new home. Another homebuyer was not so lucky. She also bought a house where cats had urinated in virtually every room. The sheetrock and flooring had to be replaced. The remediation cost was in excess of $250,000. She hired a lawyer, went to arbitration, and won. As hard as you try to discover all defects before buying, it's impossible to know everything even if the seller is honest and the house is thoroughly inspected. This doesn't just apply to older homes. New homes sometimes have construction defects that aren't readily apparent. What should you do to keep yourself from ending up in a situation like the two described above? HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Make sure that you are involved in the inspection phase of your purchase. This includes attending inspections and asking the inspector questions. If you don't know what to ask, talk to friends who bought recently. Find out if they discovered unexpected surprises after they moved in. Your real estate agent should be able to provide a list of red flags that could indicate serious problems. Ask your agent if he or she has been involved in any unpleasant after-closing situations, and if there could have been anything done before closing to prevent this. Home inspection, engineering, drainage and termite reports often include recommendations for further inspections. And they note items that won't be inspected, like a sauna or irrigation system. Real estate brokers often give buyers a disclosure document advising them to inspect the property carefully. The disclosure might also indicate important issues that agents will not be looking into, like checking the permit record. Don't be fooled into thinking you don't need to follow up on these issues because the house looks fine. You could get lucky, but I wouldn't count on it. In fact, disclaimers detailing the limits of inspectors' and agents' responsibilities make a strong case for taking charge of your due diligence investigations. Don't be shy about asking questions. For instance, if the sellers have pets, ask if there are, or have been, any odors or damage attributable to the pets. If you're concerned about drainage, ask the sellers if they've had any water problems. If so, what have they done to correct the situation? Find out if the house has recently been carpeted or painted. Document your conversations. Better still, ask the sellers to put any pertinent disclosure in writing, even if it's just an e-mail. Keep this documentation in your transaction file. The first thing to do if you discover a serious defect after closing is to review your transaction file and make sure this wasn't already discovered during inspections or disclosed to you by the sellers. If the documentation reveals nothing, make your agent aware of the problem and ask her to talk to the listing agent so that the sellers are aware of the situation. It will cost less time, money, and aggravation if you can resolve the issue without having to go to arbitration or court. THE CLOSING: If this doesn't work, consult with a knowledgeable residential real estate attorney about how to proceed. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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| Is now a good time to downsize? By Dian Hymer Interest rates are low. Prices have come down in many areas. More buyers are deciding it's a good time to buy, even though it may be awhile before the housing market stabilizes. Buyers who have a house to sell face a more complicated situation than they did when they bought their first home. They may not be able to afford to buy a new house before selling the old one. And, it may be more difficult to find a home to buy because many sellers are not selling now due to current market conditions. Despite complications, homeowners who want to trade up in a down market can benefit financially. They may sell their current home for less than it might have sold for a few years ago, but they also could pay a lot to less for the replacement home. Let's say your current home that was worth $500,000 two years ago is now worth $400,000, or 20 percent less. Even though you would sell for $100,000 less today, if you buy a $1 million house that two years ago was worth $1.25 million, or 20 percent more, you come out $150,000 ahead. The math may not be as advantageous if you're downsizing. You may find that you sell at a bigger discount than you would have a few years ago without realizing as large a cash discount on the purchase of the smaller, less expensive house. You also might find that you are in competition with buyers who are either first-timers or trade-down buyers like yourself. Another factor is that, in general, the price per square foot of smaller houses is more than the price per square foot of larger houses in the same area. So you might have to pay more than half the selling price of your house to buy a house that's less than half the size of your house. That is, if you're purchasing the new home in an equally expensive neighborhood. Regardless of this disparity in prices, if housing prices in your area are falling, it would be better to sell now than wait for the market to turn, as your home might sell for even less if you wait. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: There is more to consider than how much profit you might realize in making a scale-down move. The first step is to make a list of all the reasons why you are considering downsizing. Common reasons are that the house is too big; it costs too much time and money to maintain; it's in an inconvenient location; or it's not located close to family. Then make a list of all of the reasons it would make sense to stay in your home. Weigh the pros and cons. The next step is to do a cost comparison to figure out how much it costs to own your present home, including property taxes, home maintenance, utility bills, mortgage payments, insurance premiums, and homeowners association dues, if there are any. Then consider how much it would cost to get your home into prime selling condition. And factor in the costs of sale. Quality of life is hard to quantify monetarily, but is a major factor in most moves. Then, calculate the cost of buying and owning a smaller home. Make certain you consult with your tax adviser to find out about the tax consequences of making the move. Downsizers who are contemplating an out-of-area move should consider renting before buying. It usually takes awhile to learn the neighborhoods and figure out which one is best for you. Even if you're not moving out of the area, it may make sense to rent for a while. THE CLOSING: In low-inventory markets it can take time to find the right home. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist. |
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| What makes food "organic"? By Charly Papp Organic food is hot and with good reason -- current research shows that it does indeed live up to the hype. Recent studies at UC Davis and the Danish Institute for Agricultural Research have detected higher levels of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals in organically farmed foods than in their conventionally produced counterparts. While this news makes their often-higher price tag easier to swallow, navigating the organic options at Whole Foods can be anything but simple. Here, a run-down of the terms so you’re ready to face the aisles: Organic – farmed without the use of chemical pesticides, fertilizers, sewage sludge, and—in the case of livestock—antibiotics and growth hormones. While the jury’s still out on whether these things are actually harmful to your health, it sure makes non-organic foods a lot less appetizing. When the term is used on packaged food labels, it ensures that at least 95 percent of the ingredients are USDA-approved organic. Those labeled made with organic ingredients must contain at least 70 percent organic components. For more information on USDA’s certification system, visit their website: http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateA&navID=NationalOrganicProgram&leftNav=NationalOrganicProgram&page=NOPNationalOrganicProgramHome&acct=AMSPW. Conventional – foods not otherwise distinguished as organic. These foods may or may not be farmed with the use of chemicals, antibiotics, and hormones. Natural – a distinction used for foods that have been minimally processed and contain no preservatives. However, the definition is not a legal one, so watch out for imposters. And remember—just because a food is natural doesn’t necessarily mean it’s healthy. Super-premium ice cream that is made with all-natural ingredients still packs a whopping 240 percent of your daily saturated fat intake per pint! Sustainable Agriculture – farming that favors more natural practices to harvest a crop, which in turn creates a system wherein food can be produced indefinitely. Transitional – food produced by a farmer that is transitioning from conventional to organic—a process that takes at least three chemical-free years to certify. Fair Trade – farmed by workers who receive a living wage and work under safe conditions. To learn more about fair trade, visit the International Federation for Alternative Trade’s website: www.ifat.org. Recombinant Bovine Growth Hormone (rbST or rBGH) – a genetically engineered hormone given to cows to boost milk production. Many claim that consumption of this hormone—which is banned in Canada and Europe—contributes to elevated cancer risk, though clinical studies have yielded somewhat conflicting results. Genetically-Modified Foods (GMOs) – crops that have been scientifically manipulated to enhance some trait, be it longevity or nutrition. Critics attest that their use is altering our environment in a host of unhealthful ways and add that their effect on humans is not yet known. For a fair look at the issue, see http://www.csa.com/discoveryguides/gmfood/overview.php You can safely assume that a food labeled “organic” is certified so—the fine for false claims can reach upwards of $10,000—but beware of the greenwash that is lending its ghoulish hue to many a not-so-virtuous product. Due to the monumental success of organic foods, many manufactures are jumping onto the green bandwagon if for nothing else than packaging, favoring designs that present a more wholesome image to the consumer. This means you’ll see more earth-toned exteriors, rustic fonts, fruits and vegetables figuring prominently… don’t be fooled. Look for key words like organic or no GMOs and check the ingredients and nutrition facts for the stats. Though the range of organic products is ever evolving and expanding, with a little bit of knowledge, you and your family can grow with the trend—without the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. |
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| Want to conserve water but still have a lawn? Go native. By Padma Nagappan Before the advent of lawnmowers, there was a time when lawns were meant only for the wealthy, since they could afford to hire a crew of workers to manually cut and maintain their sprawling gardens with scythes. The rest of the folks used what land they had to grow vegetables, medicinal herbs, and flowers in cottage gardens. Today, grassy lawns are ubiquitous in front and back yards across America and a trademark of modern housing developments. Given that southern California is experiencing a prolonged drought and parts of the north have water supply problems, it may be time for home owners to sit up and question whether the resources spent on maintaining their lawns are justified. Utility officials estimate that up to 70 per cent of the average residential water bill is derived from outdoor use. What are the alternatives? Artificial turf companies peddle their products as the ideal no maintenance, green solution to replace thirsty, patchy lawns. Water agencies down south even offer rebates for consumers who replace lawns with turf. But there is concern about the lead content in the turf, and is the subject of an ongoing debate. A better alternative would be to go native, choosing grasses and plants that are drought tolerant and indigenous to California. David Fross, the founder of Native Son Wholesale Nursery in Arroyo Grande, has stocked native grasses for years, but until recently there were no takers. Now, with gardeners wanting to conserve water, it is a challenge to keep these varieties in stock. “What complicates things is that California has microclimates that vary from coastal to inland locations, so irrigation requirements for the same plants would vary depending on where you live,” says Fross, whose latest book, Reimagining California Lawns (Cachuma Press), will be published in 2010. One issue with native plants is that in adapting to our Mediterranean climate, they go dormant in the summer, which is when most folks want to enjoy their gardens. For moderate to heavy traffic, Fross recommends sedges such as the slender field sedge, which is compact, stays green all summer, needs about half the water of a traditional grass, and monthly mowing. Other options include blue gama grass, California meadow sedge and blue sedge. Korean velvet grass is not native but is slow growing, dormant in winter, and can be left unmowed for a natural, clumping look. Buffalograss UC verde is native to the west, forms a dense turf of bright green blades, and stays greener longer than other sedges. For moderate traffic, meadows that combine perennials with grasses and sedges into carpets are a good option, Fross says. He suggests yarrow varieties (Achillea species) that are water thrifty, can be mowed, and sprout small flowers. Other choices are deer grass and checkerblooms. The Corsican mint is a good candidate for light traffic areas and between stepping stones. If you prefer ground cover, create carpets or tapestries using bee’s bliss sage. Gravel and rock gardens with accent plants and succulents such as agave, manzanita, and buckwheat are yet another alternative. Except for the meadow, all of these options are relatively low maintenance but will require care during their first season. To kill your patchy grass without chemicals, tamp down sheets of black plastic and it will die in eight to twelve weeks, suggests Fross. Conversion costs range from $10 to $50 per square-foot, depending on what you choose and who does the work. The popular belief that native plants are woody and gray is incorrect, he says, explaining that they offer a wonderful, rich palette of options and are versatile, being able to adapt to locations on valleys and banks, sun or shade, median strips and meadows. There are 5,000-plus native choices that can serve every function that the generic plants from garden stores offer, he explained, suggesting alternatives for popular ornamental plants. If you like hibiscus for instance, a great native plant equivalent would be the abutilon palmeri, local to San Diego, which has luminous, golden flowers and felted, gray leaves. Another iconic California native is the Ceanothus, with blue spring flowers. To find out where to purchase native plants, visit www.nativeson.com for a list of retail nurseries and www.bewaterwise.com for plant suggestions. Padma Nagappan is a San Diego based business writer who focuses on sustainability. |
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| Tech playing key role in real estate deals By Dian Hymer Invariably, buyers or sellers are faced with important decisions at the most inconvenient times. They may be on vacation or on a business trip. Even if you're in town, you may be tied up in meetings and unable to take time to drive to your real estate agent's office. There are ways to deal with this that will minimize the hassle and enable you to respond in a timely fashion. Timing is essential in the home-sale business. If sellers have to wait too long for a response, their enthusiasm might wane. Buyers, on the other hand, could find themselves bidding against another buyer if they make an offer on a hot new listing and can't respond to a counteroffer in time. Often negotiations are handled verbally when buyers or sellers can't be present to sign a purchase contract or counteroffer. But oral agreements to buy and sell real estate are not binding. That's why it's important to have a procedure in place that enables you to sign any pertinent documents as soon as possible, no matter where you happen to be. If you're leaving town, let your agent know the dates you'll be gone and how best to reach you. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Many homes are bought and sold using a combination of phone, e-mail and fax. Recently, electronic signatures have become popular. In order to use an electronic signature, you need to sign up with a company that is equipped to provide e-signatures on documents. Use your search engine to find an online provider, or ask your real estate agent, attorney or closing agent for a recommendation. Then, your agent can send you documents; you sign with your e-signature and e-mail the documents back. Most lenders won't start processing the buyers' loan until they have a signed purchase contract. However, they will start the process if the contract is signed with e-signatures. They are likely to require that you add wet signatures to the contract before closing. The buyers or sellers might also request this. A downside to e-signatures is that anyone who has access to your computer might hit your designated e-signature key on your keyboard. Keep this information confidential. Faxed signatures are binding as long as this verbiage is included in the purchase agreement. Documents can be faxed or scanned and then e-mailed to you. You print the documents, sign them and fax them back to your agent. If you won't be staying at a hotel that provides business services, find a company like FedEx Office, or the UPS Store that can fax or scan and e-mail the signed documents back to your agent. Otherwise, ask a friend or real estate agent in the area if you can use his or her fax machine. Another possibility is to grant power of attorney to someone you trust who can sign documents for you in your absence. The power of attorney should be specific to your home purchase or sale. If someone is going to sign documents that will be notarized and recorded at closing, make sure that the power of attorney document will be acceptable to the buyers' lender and to the title company. It's not a good idea to give power of attorney to your real estate agent. Sellers who hold title to the home they're selling in a living trust won't be able to use a power of attorney unless the trust documents specifically provide for this. Some sellers who know they will be out of the country when closing occurs arrange to sign documents early. Overnight mail can be used if necessary. THE CLOSING: However, any documents that need to be notarized in a foreign country must be signed at an American consulate. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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