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| Your Home Real Estate Newsletter |
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Articles and Advice |
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| Water audits prepare you for the future By Michelle D. Alderson Despite a very wet season this past winter, the increase in rainfall didn’t make up for many years of below-average water levels. In 2009 California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger declared a state of emergency in an effort to manage the drought crisis. Since then, many water companies have put into place mandatory water rationing with financial penalties for homeowners who don't comply. Before you find yourself paying more for your water, be prepared for the future by conducting a water audit (don't worry, you don't have to find all your water bills from the past two years). A water audit analyzes a home's water use and identifies ways to make it more efficient. A water audit's primary focus is to check for leaks in plumbing fixtures, appliances, toilets, faucets, hoses, and sprinklers (as well as ponds, fountains, and pools, where applicable). A water audit also can determine if older appliances and faucets need to be replaced with newer energy-efficient products, which can save both water and money on your monthly utility bills; Simply installing a low-flow showerhead you can save 8,000 gallons of water a year per person. Beyond doing a physical check for water leaks, a water audit also looks at how much water you can save in daily tasks. Do you take long showers? Do you use the dishwasher and clothes washer only when they are full? Do you turn off the water when you are brushing your teeth? According to the American Water Works Association (AWWA), the average indoor water use per person is 94 gallons of water per day. Simply adjusting everyday habits can cut back on water usage by as much as 30 percent. That’s more than 30 gallons a day per person. With global warming and droughts plaguing the West, water rationing will become mandatory by most utility companies. California's state water department forecasts that the Sierras, which are one of California’s main water sources, will have 25 to 40 percent less snow by 2050. A water audit saves money, saves water, and prepares you for an inevitable future. To find out how your household's water use compares to the rest of the country, go to H2O Conserve's website (www.h2oconserve.org) or the Water Use It Wisely site (http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/100-ways-to-conserve/home-water-audit.phptry) for their user-friendly H2O calculators. They will show how much water you use and give tips on ways to conserve. For more information on water audits, visit the AWWA website (www.awwa.org). |
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| Seven rules for room additions By Paul Bianchina If you're happy with your home and your neighborhood but are craving a little more space, maybe adding on is a better alternative to moving out. Room additions can be a terrific alternative for many homes, adding space for a growing family and adding resale value at the same time. But be forewarned. A good room addition involves a whole lot more than just slapping on some additional square footage. Here are some important rules to keep in mind as your planning gets under way: 1. Know why you're adding on: This is the first rule, and it happens before you lift a hammer. Why do you need to add on? And no fair cheating and saying, "I need more space!" Do you need another bathroom? Bedroom space? A laundry room or mud room? An improved kitchen flow? More space to entertain? Better accessibility due to health issues? More storage? A larger garage or hobby area? The only way the addition will meet your needs is to know what those needs are in the first place. 2. Good additions never look like additions: This is the other top rule of room-addition planning. When you're done, the addition -- no matter what its size or where it's located -- should never look like an addition. The architectural styles of new and existing need to blend. The exterior materials need to blend as well, or at least complement each other. To the extent possible, use the same type of windows, roofing, doors, siding and other materials. If the original home has wood windows, using new vinyl windows in the addition screams "add-on" and lowers the appeal and the value. Don't overlook the need to blend landscaping and hardscaping as well. 3. Out, up, down, or a combination: The how and the where of a room addition is always a fun and exciting challenge for everyone involved. Some homes are situated on larger lots and lend themselves very nicely to adding out. Others seem best suited to adding up by building on a second or even a partial third floor. Some houses are even laid out in such a way that it's possible to excavate under them and add new living space in the form of a daylight basement. Or it could be that a combination of two or even all three of these options makes the most sense for your particular home. Keep your mind open to the possibilities. Work with a good contractor and a good designer and you'll be amazed at what you can come up with. 4. Don't let the interior become an afterthought: I've seen a surprising number of additions that look great from the outside but seem to have no thought put into them on the inside. Flooring doesn't match. Trim doesn't match. Sometimes even the interior floor heights don't match. Remember that how the interior of your addition looks and flows on the inside is just as important as how it looks and flows on the outside. Use the same materials or the same style of materials. Match up ceiling, floor, and wall levels. Here again, no matter how you view the addition, inside or out, it should never look like an addition. 5. Create convenient access: This is another afterthought in a lot of additions. Let's say you have a three-bedroom, one-bathroom house, and you want to add a second bathroom. Typically, that's an addition that's going to have a good payback. But then you build the addition so that the only access to the second bathroom is through the kitchen. You now have a three-bedroom, two-bath house, but since the layout is lousy, you've actually gone backwards in terms of desirability and resale value. Are you going to create a beautiful second-floor master suite that can be accessed only by a tiny spiral staircase from the family room? Is the only way into your great new kitchen via a convoluted hallway that leads through the laundry room? When planning your addition, never lose sight of how you're going to access the new spaces, and make sure that access is both convenient and inviting. 6. Don't overwhelm your lot: Granted, room additions are expensive. So when you're doing one, and all those workers are onsite, there's a temptation to get as much square footage as you can. But don't cram your lot full of house. Remember that open space is important as well, both to you and your family, and, later on, to potential buyers. This is a good time to go back to Rule No. 1 and reconsider the "why" part of your room addition. Don't add space just to add it -- stay focused on your overall goals. 7. Understand the legalities: There are lots of rules and regulations that come into play regarding room additions. These include property line setbacks, zoning restrictions, and restrictions imposed by homeowner associations and architectural review committees. In some historic areas, your addition may have to comply with certain historic guidelines. In other areas, there may even be solar shading restrictions that limit the height or the orientation of your roof line. Be sure you check into all of this before you get too far along with your planning. |
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| Good Faith Estimate contains some 'quirks' By Dian Hymer As of Jan. 1, 2010, the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) required lenders to provide mortgage borrowers with a new three-page Good Faith Estimate (GFE) to protect consumers who are applying for a mortgage. The intent of the GFE is to educate consumers about the key terms and costs of a mortgage, both at origination and ongoing. A loan originator completes the form, giving the borrower a summary of the loan particulars and information necessary to shop rates and to be sure they're comparing like-type mortgages. Although there's grumbling, mostly from mortgage brokers, lenders and closing/escrow agents, the format and information included in the new GFE is a step in the right direction. There are, however, some quirks. For example, the GFE doesn't provide a complete and accurate account of the borrower's costs. Page two provides an itemization of loan origination and settlement costs. The origination charge is itemized as one lump sum; it's not broken down. So, you don't know how much you're paying the appraiser for the appraisal, the loan originator for the origination fee, or other miscellaneous fees. Another shortcoming is in the way transfer taxes are disclosed. The entire amount of any transfer taxes is entered on the GFE, even if the sellers pay part or all of it. This could inflate the buyer's estimated settlement costs. To get around having to generate a GFE for buyers before they have committed to a given loan originator, some mortgage originators have developed worksheet quotes for buyers to use if they want to shop rates. HUD is adamant that these worksheets can't be used instead of a GFE. Furthermore, they provide the borrower no protection. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: The new federally mandated GFE provides protection for borrowers against being charged extra fees at closing that weren't disclosed on the GFE. An informal worksheet provides no such protection. Origination and settlement fees are grouped into three different categories. The first category is fees that can't increase between the time the GFE is issued and closing. Included in this category are the lender or mortgage broker's origination fee, transfer taxes and adjustments to loan origination charges after the borrower locks in an interest rate. Loan originators who miscalculate, causing fees to run higher at closing, have to make up the difference out of pocket. To cover themselves, some loan originators pad the Category one figure. The second category of fees can increase up to 10 percent at closing and includes such things as government recording charges and title insurance -- if the title insurer is identified by the lender, not by the borrower. This is done to encourage lenders to shop for the most cost-effective coverage for the consumer. The third category of fees can change at settlement and includes homeowners insurance and title insurance coverage if the borrower, not the lender, identifies the title insurer. The new GFE also includes a tradeoff table that shows what the interest rate would be if you paid a higher origination fee vs. a lower origination fee: the higher the fee, the lower the rate; the lower the fee, the higher the rate. Finally, there's a loan-shopping chart to use the mortgage information provided by one lender to compare with other lenders. There is no obligation to use a loan originator who completes a GFE for you. A loan originator can't refuse to provide a GFE to a prospective borrower who asks for one. As soon as a prospective borrower provides essential application information, such as Social Security number, property address, etc., the originator is to provide a GFE. THE CLOSING: Lenders are required to provide a GFE within three days of receiving the borrower's application. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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| Sellers face new dilemma in timing the market By Dian Hymer Some sellers have been biding their time for three years and now wonder if they should continue to wait or bite the bullet and sell now. Karl Case, co-creator of the widely followed S&P/Case-Shiller Home Price index, thinks there's a 50-50 chance that we're at the bottom of the market and that we'll see improvements in the months ahead. Unemployment remains a concern. An increase in the number of new households is predicated on an increase in jobs. Even if we have seen the worst of the recession, most analysts believe the housing recovery could be rocky for years. A quick turnaround is probably not on the horizon. The home-sale market is generally better this year than it was last year at this time. Interest rates are lower by about 1 percent. Mortgages are much more readily available. Home prices have dropped significantly, making it possible for buyers to afford to buy a long-term home. An increasing number of fence-sitters have turned into motivated buyers. However, they are focused on value, condition and location; they aren't overpaying, as they did in 2006. It's still a buyer's market and could remain so for some time to come. Sellers who purchased within the last five years might need to sell for less than they paid. One couple bought a home in Crocker Highlands, a coveted Oakland, Calif., neighborhood. They paid just over $1.1 million in 2005 and made improvements to the property. They sold in 2009, after investing more to prepare the property for sale. They received multiple offers, over the list price. The home sold for $905,000. These sellers weren't happy about the loss. But, their goal was to own only one home. They bought a retirement home near Sacramento and were spending most of their time there. Holding onto the Oakland home was a financial drain, particularly since they were there only part time. They couldn't rent the property out for enough to cover the ownership costs. Another homeowner realized before the recent economic downturn that she couldn't afford to continue to make hefty mortgage payments due to a drop in her income. Emotionally attached to her home that she'd improved over time, she decided not to sell then, which would have resulted in a profit. Instead, she rented the property for a few years and moved in with a friend to lower her overhead. Although the rent reduced her monthly debt load, it didn't cover the carrying costs. When she finally sold in January 2010, prices had dropped to a point that the property sold for less than the amounts of the mortgages secured against the property. To get lender approval on a short sale, the seller had to contribute cash at closing. Clearly, she would have been better off financially if she had sold years earlier. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Deciding whether to sell now and take advantage of an improved home-sale market or wait for a better time is complicated. First, you need to know the approximate selling price of your home in this market. How much work needs to be done to get the property ready to sell? Does the house have any defects or deferred maintenance that will impact the sale price or make the property harder to sell? If so, this would negatively impact the price. This information can be obtained through your real estate agent. THE CLOSING: Low inventories of good homes in some niche market gives sellers an edge. Even so, you'll be successful in today's market only if you are realistic about the current market value of your home. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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| Add power to purchase offer By Dian Hymer Figuring out how much to offer on a home you'd like to make your own is never easy. A complicating factor is that although it appears that the housing market may be stabilizing, there is no guarantee that prices won't slip further. With this in mind, don't buy for the short term. Don't buy betting on future appreciation. Buy a home that will work for you long term, at the best price you can negotiate, using financing you can afford. To avoid paying too much, hook up with a real estate agent who will educate you about how much you'll have to pay for a home that works for you. The Internet is a great resource to help you learn about neighborhoods, current listings, and past sale prices. However, a diligent, knowledgeable real estate agent who has experience helping people buy and sell homes in the area where you want to live can get you up to speed on what's happening in that niche market now. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Ask your agent to give you a summary of all listings that you might have been interested in that sold during the last three months to six months, including list price, sale price and how long they took to sell. It's also useful to have information about the change in average sale price over the past year. Have prices declined? Are they flat? Or are they rising? Also, ask for a list of properties currently available and pending sale. A pending sale is one where the sellers have accepted an offer, but the sale hasn't yet closed. Significantly more active listings than pending sales in an area suggests a high-inventory market where buyers have an advantage. Few active listings relative to pending sales is characteristic of a low-inventory market. During your house-hunting education, make sure your agent reports back to you about day-to-day changes in the market. If an overpriced listing has a price reduction and is now in your price range, make a point of looking at it as soon as possible. A new price can attract other buyers' interest. When listings you've seen sell, your agent should let you know the sale price. This will help you develop a sense for when a listing is priced too high, or priced at or under market value. How well a listing is priced for the market affects your offer strategy. A well-priced listing in a low-inventory market is likely to sell quickly. There could be more than one buyer making an offer. If so, you may need to make an aggressive offer near, at or over the asking price. However, multiple offers don't always result in a sale price higher than the list price. Becoming savvy about local market pricing enables you to know when to make a strong offer on a new listing, even though the overall market may be lagging. It's a different story in segments of the market where there are plenty of listings that take months to sell. In this case, you have choices, making it possible to offer less than the asking price and negotiate. If this one doesn't work out, you move on to the next. You should be prepared to walk away rather than pay too much. Buyers making offers that are contingent on the sale of another property usually have to pay more than all-cash buyers who can close quickly. If you've already sold your home and are waiting for the sale to close, you'll be in a better position to negotiate on price. THE CLOSING: The best bet is to have your home sold and closed. It removes uncertainty in the sellers' minds and may make them more receptive to a lower price. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
| A simple guide to home seller disclosure By Dian Hymer How would you like to find out after you've closed and moved into your new home that the basement is rat-infested? You call a local pest company and discover that the sellers hired the company to treat the house for rat intrusion. Pest infestation might not be a material fact to all buyers. A material fact is one that would affect whether or not buyers would buy a property or the price they'd be willing to pay. However, most buyers would be annoyed at the least that the sellers hadn't informed them in advance that the property had a condition that required routine maintenance. It could also make the buyers suspicious that the sellers may have withheld other information. Home-seller disclosure laws vary from state to state, although most states require disclosure of material facts. Check with your real estate broker or attorney for information about disclosure requirements before you put your home on the market. Sellers often fear that if they disclose too much, buyers won't buy their home. Generally, the opposite is the case. Buyers appreciate knowing as much about a property as possible before they close the sale. When buyers discover conditions affecting the property that they didn't know before closing -- ones that the sellers had to have known about -- they could use legal channels to remedy the situation. The goal in selling your home should be to sell for the highest price possible in the current market, and to keep as much of the proceeds as you can. Getting involved in a claim, mediation, arbitration or lawsuit over lack of disclosure or concealment can be time-consuming, stressful and very expensive. In today's environment of economic uncertainty, buyers who feel they were duped are more likely to pursue a claim against less-than-forthright sellers than they might have when home prices were appreciating at such a fast clip that it was often easier to fix the problem themselves than get into a legal battle with the sellers. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Here's a guideline to help you decide what should be disclosed. If you're asking yourself whether something should be disclosed, it's probably material to someone, so disclose it. Keep in mind that it's often not clear whether a fact is material. There's a certain amount of subjectivity involved. For example, a woman was raped in a home in a trendy area of Oakland, Calif. This happened before the current owners bought the house. To err on the safe side, the current sellers disclosed this fact, figuring that it might be significant to someone interested in the property. It was also common knowledge in the neighborhood that the event had occurred. If the sellers hadn't disclosed it, the buyers would surely have found out about it later. A single woman who was interested in the house decided not to buy. The house had a detached garage, which gave her cause for concern even before she learned about the crime that occurred at the property. Another buyer had no concern at all about the past incident. The house sold. There was no discount in price due to the disclosure. It takes time to make complete and accurate disclosures. Some sellers take their disclosure obligations less than seriously. It's foolish to shortchange yourself, literally, by failing to make accurate and forthcoming disclosures about property defects. It could significantly affect your net proceeds. The burden of disclosure doesn't rest entirely on the sellers. Real estate agents are required to disclosure material facts. And buyers have a responsibility to protect themselves by thoroughly inspecting the property before deciding to proceed. THE CLOSING: A well-inspected property, complete with sellers' disclosures, protects all parties involved. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
| New lead rules affect pre-1978 homes By Paul Bianchina Many houses, apartments and other buildings that were built prior to 1978 may have paint in them that contains lead. Lead-based paint can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly, especially for children and pregnant women. If you live in a home that was built prior to 1978, or if you're thinking of buying or renovating one, this is certainly an issue that you need to be aware of. On April 22, 2010, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) put a new rule into effect that's designed to help focus the efforts of consumers and contractors to protect against the potential health hazards of lead-based paint. Called the Lead Paint Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule (RRP), the new rule affects contractors and subcontractors who work on older homes. Under the RRP rule, all renovation and repair contractors working in pre-1978 homes, schools, and day care centers who disrupt more than six square feet of lead paint are required to become EPA-certified in lead-safe work practices. Contractors are required to take a one-day training course, and firms must send in an application to the EPA. If not, they could face tens of thousands of dollars in fines in the future. According to the EPA, many contractors think the issue of lead-paint poisoning went away years ago. But lead-paint poisoning isn't just about eating paint chips, and even contractors who think they're doing a good job may not be working in a lead-safe manner. In fact, new research shows that contractors such as plumbers, electricians, painters and window replacement experts can inadvertently expose children to harmful levels of lead from invisible dust disturbed during jobs they perform every day. Of particular concern to the EPA is the safety of young children who are living in the home during renovation work. The EPA quotes one study where it was found that children were 30 percent more likely to have unsafe levels of lead in their blood than those in homes where renovations were not occurring. Contractors who work on pre-1978 homes, apartments, schools, day care centers and other places where children spend time -- from large and small contractors to building services professionals -- will have to take the necessary steps to become lead-safe certified. EPA certification is good for five years. Where is lead a hazard? Typically, the older your home is, the more potential there is that lead paint will be present. It may be buried under several other layers of non-lead-based paint, and as long as those upper layers are not disturbed the health hazard remains relatively low. But as soon as the paint begins to chip or peel, or if any sanding, cutting, or other renovation or repair work is done, the lead-based paint can be released. Here are some of the potential hazard areas, based on suggestions from the EPA: • Lead from paint chips, which you can see, and lead dust, which you can't always see, can be serious hazards. • Peeling, chipping, chalking, or cracking lead-based paint is a hazard and needs immediate attention. • Lead-based paint may also be a hazard when found on surfaces that children can chew or that get a lot of wear and tear. These areas include windows and window sills; doors and door frames; stairs, railings, and banisters; and porches and fences. • Lead dust can form when lead-based paint is dry scraped, dry sanded or heated. Dust also forms when painted surfaces bump or rub together. Lead chips and dust can get on surfaces and objects that people touch. Settled lead dust can re-enter the air when people vacuum, sweep or walk through it. • Lead in soil can be a hazard when children play in bare soil or when people bring soil into the house on their shoes. To find out more about lead-paint hazards, lead-paint testing, and the new lead-safe certification program for contractors, visit the EPA's Web site at www.epa.gov/lead, or contact the National Lead Information Center (NLIC) at 1-800-424-LEAD (5323). |
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