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| Real Estate Today |
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Articles and Advice |
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| Multiple home inspections pay off By Dian Hymer Buyers often assume that if a house is new there's no need to inspect it. What could possibly be wrong with a brand-new house? You'd be surprised. Following the 1991 firestorm that destroyed thousands of homes in the hills above Oakland, Calif., contractors from around the country moved into the area to take advantage of rebuilding opportunities. The planning department was overwhelmed. Inspectors rushed from one job to another. Problems that showed up mere years after these new homes were completed were often due to faulty installation of windows and doors, improperly flashed decks over finished living areas, and lack of proper ventilation. One elderly homeowner rebuilt her home in Oakland's Upper Rockridge neighborhood after the fire. The house looked great, better than it had looked before the fire. However, it wasn't built as well. When the owner decided to move to a retirement facility, she sold the house. To her surprise, the termite report revealed that the one-story front stair system was severely damaged by wood pests and needed to be replaced at a cost of more than $20,000. The waterproof membrane had not been installed properly; there was no flashing and no ventilation. Water penetrated the stair system. The area under the stairs couldn't dry out. The damp wood frame provided an ideal environment for wood pests to do their damage. Several years after rebuilding, another homeowner discovered that the doors, windows, and terraces hadn't been properly installed. The house exterior, windows, exterior doors, and terrace had to be rebuilt. The homeowner successfully sued the contractor, but it was a time-consuming hassle, and necessitated moving out of the house during the rebuilding process. Many real estate agents provide forms for their clients to read and sign. These include strongly worded advisories to inspect the property thoroughly. Many inspection reports specify what is and is not included n the inspection. For example, wood-destroying pest (also known as "termite") reports usually don't cover mold. Home inspectors often don't inspect spas, irrigation systems or security systems. And they usually don't check the permit record. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: Most buyers don't read reports and contract documents carefully. It is important to do so. This means: Read over every word, including disclaimers. If an inspector or your agent recommends a further inspection, follow through and hire the appropriate professional to check out the system. Check directly with the local planning or zoning department for answers to pertinent questions that might affect your decision to buy a property. A further inspection could yield good news, as home inspectors tend to err on the side of caution to limit their liability. For example, one home inspector who inspected a home in the Oakland Hills reported that the older roof needed to be replaced and recommended consulting a licensed roofing contractor. The roofer said the roof needed repairs but didn't need replacing. In another instance, the buyers' inspector reported that the furnace needed repair to keep hot air from escaping into an area that didn't need heat. The seller recently paid a heating contractor to make repairs to the furnace. The work was still under warranty. There was no repair cost incurred by either the buyers or sellers. Failing to complete a further inspection can have serious consequences. You could have a difficult time getting financial help from the sellers after closing if a further inspection was recommended and you did not have it done. Some buyers don't want to pay the cost of a further inspection, especially if the cost is high. In some cases, the sellers might be willing to share the expense of a further inspection with you. THE CLOSING: Weigh the cost of the further inspection against the possible cost to repair the defect. The cost may be minimal seen in that context. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author. |
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| Icicles in attic a red flag By Paul Bianchina Q: This summer we had siding installed around our house and we painted over the ventilation vents (husband's idea). My husband decided to cover the attic vent on top of the roof with a plastic bag because he said it would help seal the house better. I had a weird feeling about this, but I don't know anything about home repairs. Well, now we have a problem with condensation in our attic (that's what I think). He went up there last night and found that there were icicles on the frame. Somehow, I think we cut off all ventilation and now we have this condensation problem that is freezing because of the cold weather. He thinks we have a leak and that we need to replace the shingles. Do I make sense? Is there any advice you can give us? A: You're actually making perfect sense, and while I hate to step into the middle of a marital disagreement, what you are thinking is probably correct. High and low ventilation in an attic is essential for a passive airflow. Cooler air enters the attic through the low vents and moves through and out of the attic through the upper vents. As that air moves it captures moisture in the attic and flushes it to the outside. Ideally, you should have approximately one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic, and that should be divided equally between high and low vents (for example, a 1,200-square-foot attic would need 4 total square feet of ventilation, with 2 square feet high and 2 square feet low). By cutting off all the ventilation in the attic, you have now allowed the moisture to accumulate up there. Since it has no where to go, it now can condense on the cold surfaces of the underside of the roof sheathing, and the resulting frost and ice is what you are seeing. The more moisture you put into the attic -- for example, if your bathroom and kitchen fans duct into the attic but not all the way to the outside -- the worse your moisture and condensation problems will become. If the moisture is allowed to remain up there, as the temperatures begin to come up again that frost and ice will turn into liquid water, which will wet the insulation, damage the wood framing, and potentially introduce mold. You need to reintroduce ventilation into the attic as soon as possible. I would clean off the paint on the vents, or simply remove and replace them, then I would definitely remove anything you have put over the vents to seal them off. I would also strongly recommend that you talk with an insurance restoration contractor who has power fans and dehumidification equipment. If you have trapped enough moisture up there that you are seeing icicles, it is probably something that needs to be dried out with more aggressive methods than just the normal passive ventilation. Finally, make sure all of your exhaust fans are vented all the way out of the attic. All that is not to say that you don't have a roof leak as well. But you need to deal with the ventilation and moisture issues first -- once all that is dried out, you can assess if you have a roof leak as well. Q: Are there any general rules of thumb with regard to the partial demolition when adding onto a house? For example, removing an external wall typically costs $X/foot, or removal of a partial roof is $X/square? A: There are different estimating books and software available for general and specialty contractors that attempt to put prices to demolition, but to be quite honest I have always found them to be inaccurate enough when it comes to remodeling that I never was able to utilize them. From wiring to plumbing to the tremendous variety of loads and framing variables present in a home that has to be partially dismantled, there is simply no way to predict and estimate partial demolition costs with any kind of accuracy without seeing the home. About the only thing I can suggest is to talk with a general contractor in your area who specializes in remodeling. If he or she is familiar with your type and age of house and the regional framing methods involved in its original construction, they may be able to give you a rough idea of demolition costs that would at least be in the ballpark. You might also be able to pay the contractor a flat fee or an hourly rate to come out and inspect the actual work you want to have to have done, and provide you with a more accurate cost estimate for the demolition phase of the work. |
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| Is now a good time to downsize? By Dian Hymer Interest rates are low. Prices have come down in many areas. More buyers are deciding it's a good time to buy, even though it may be awhile before the housing market stabilizes. Buyers who have a house to sell face a more complicated situation than they did when they bought their first home. They may not be able to afford to buy a new house before selling the old one. And, it may be more difficult to find a home to buy because many sellers are not selling now due to current market conditions. Despite complications, homeowners who want to trade up in a down market can benefit financially. They may sell their current home for less than it might have sold for a few years ago, but they also could pay a lot to less for the replacement home. Let's say your current home that was worth $500,000 two years ago is now worth $400,000, or 20 percent less. Even though you would sell for $100,000 less today, if you buy a $1 million house that two years ago was worth $1.25 million, or 20 percent more, you come out $150,000 ahead. The math may not be as advantageous if you're downsizing. You may find that you sell at a bigger discount than you would have a few years ago without realizing as large a cash discount on the purchase of the smaller, less expensive house. You also might find that you are in competition with buyers who are either first-timers or trade-down buyers like yourself. Another factor is that, in general, the price per square foot of smaller houses is more than the price per square foot of larger houses in the same area. So you might have to pay more than half the selling price of your house to buy a house that's less than half the size of your house. That is, if you're purchasing the new home in an equally expensive neighborhood. Regardless of this disparity in prices, if housing prices in your area are falling, it would be better to sell now than wait for the market to turn, as your home might sell for even less if you wait. HOUSE HUNTING TIP: There is more to consider than how much profit you might realize in making a scale-down move. The first step is to make a list of all the reasons why you are considering downsizing. Common reasons are that the house is too big; it costs too much time and money to maintain; it's in an inconvenient location; or it's not located close to family. Then make a list of all of the reasons it would make sense to stay in your home. Weigh the pros and cons. The next step is to do a cost comparison to figure out how much it costs to own your present home, including property taxes, home maintenance, utility bills, mortgage payments, insurance premiums, and homeowners association dues, if there are any. Then consider how much it would cost to get your home into prime selling condition. And factor in the costs of sale. Quality of life is hard to quantify monetarily, but is a major factor in most moves. Then, calculate the cost of buying and owning a smaller home. Make certain you consult with your tax adviser to find out about the tax consequences of making the move. Downsizers who are contemplating an out-of-area move should consider renting before buying. It usually takes awhile to learn the neighborhoods and figure out which one is best for you. Even if you're not moving out of the area, it may make sense to rent for a while. THE CLOSING: In low-inventory markets it can take time to find the right home. Dian Hymer, a real estate broker with more than 30 years' experience, is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist. |
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| Want to conserve water but still have a lawn? Go native. By Padma Nagappan Before the advent of lawnmowers, there was a time when lawns were meant only for the wealthy, since they could afford to hire a crew of workers to manually cut and maintain their sprawling gardens with scythes. The rest of the folks used what land they had to grow vegetables, medicinal herbs, and flowers in cottage gardens. Today, grassy lawns are ubiquitous in front and back yards across America and a trademark of modern housing developments. Given that southern California is experiencing a prolonged drought and parts of the north have water supply problems, it may be time for home owners to sit up and question whether the resources spent on maintaining their lawns are justified. Utility officials estimate that up to 70 per cent of the average residential water bill is derived from outdoor use. What are the alternatives? Artificial turf companies peddle their products as the ideal no maintenance, green solution to replace thirsty, patchy lawns. Water agencies down south even offer rebates for consumers who replace lawns with turf. But there is concern about the lead content in the turf, and is the subject of an ongoing debate. A better alternative would be to go native, choosing grasses and plants that are drought tolerant and indigenous to California. David Fross, the founder of Native Son Wholesale Nursery in Arroyo Grande, has stocked native grasses for years, but until recently there were no takers. Now, with gardeners wanting to conserve water, it is a challenge to keep these varieties in stock. “What complicates things is that California has microclimates that vary from coastal to inland locations, so irrigation requirements for the same plants would vary depending on where you live,” says Fross, whose latest book, Reimagining California Lawns (Cachuma Press), will be published in 2010. One issue with native plants is that in adapting to our Mediterranean climate, they go dormant in the summer, which is when most folks want to enjoy their gardens. For moderate to heavy traffic, Fross recommends sedges such as the slender field sedge, which is compact, stays green all summer, needs about half the water of a traditional grass, and monthly mowing. Other options include blue gama grass, California meadow sedge and blue sedge. Korean velvet grass is not native but is slow growing, dormant in winter, and can be left unmowed for a natural, clumping look. Buffalograss UC verde is native to the west, forms a dense turf of bright green blades, and stays greener longer than other sedges. For moderate traffic, meadows that combine perennials with grasses and sedges into carpets are a good option, Fross says. He suggests yarrow varieties (Achillea species) that are water thrifty, can be mowed, and sprout small flowers. Other choices are deer grass and checkerblooms. The Corsican mint is a good candidate for light traffic areas and between stepping stones. If you prefer ground cover, create carpets or tapestries using bee’s bliss sage. Gravel and rock gardens with accent plants and succulents such as agave, manzanita, and buckwheat are yet another alternative. Except for the meadow, all of these options are relatively low maintenance but will require care during their first season. To kill your patchy grass without chemicals, tamp down sheets of black plastic and it will die in eight to twelve weeks, suggests Fross. Conversion costs range from $10 to $50 per square-foot, depending on what you choose and who does the work. The popular belief that native plants are woody and gray is incorrect, he says, explaining that they offer a wonderful, rich palette of options and are versatile, being able to adapt to locations on valleys and banks, sun or shade, median strips and meadows. There are 5,000-plus native choices that can serve every function that the generic plants from garden stores offer, he explained, suggesting alternatives for popular ornamental plants. If you like hibiscus for instance, a great native plant equivalent would be the abutilon palmeri, local to San Diego, which has luminous, golden flowers and felted, gray leaves. Another iconic California native is the Ceanothus, with blue spring flowers. To find out where to purchase native plants, visit www.nativeson.com for a list of retail nurseries and www.bewaterwise.com for plant suggestions. Padma Nagappan is a San Diego based business writer who focuses on sustainability. |
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| Insulation tips for 1920s home By Paul Bianchina Q: I recently bought a house built in 1927. It's a two-story with a finished attic (total of three floors of living space). It appears to have no insulation whatsoever. The third floor has access to the tops of the exterior walls, all of the roof rafters, and the tops of the second-floor ceilings. What would you recommend for insulation? Should I blow cellulose insulation down the exterior walls from the attic space? A: Unfortunately, you're going to get a lot of conflicting opinions on whether blowing insulation into the exterior cavities of an older home is a good idea or not. With a home as old as yours, you have the possibility that the weight and pressure of the blown insulation can damage wiring in the walls, crack plaster, and even possibly damage old water pipes. Also, older homes tend to leak a lot of air through the walls. That means that moisture is being drawn into the walls as well, which can dampen the cellulose and cause all sorts of additional moisture problems to the structure. For all those reasons, retrofitting insulation in an older home is very site-specific, and there is no "one-size-fits-all" solution. The best thing I can suggest is that you have two experienced, licensed insulation contractors come out and inspect the house and make specific suggestions as to what you can do to insulate it. Compare their suggestions and their cost estimates, and see if there is a consensus of opinion on how best to proceed. Another option is to contact your local utility company and see if they have a weatherization consultant available that can come out and check the house. This should be a free service from the utility, and in addition to making specific suggestions about how to insulate and weatherize the house, they may have grant money or low-interest loans available to help you with the work. CHANGING OUT THAT OLD COOKTOP Q: I do hope you can help me. My budget is low and I have a kitchen from the early 1980s. The electric countertop is still the one that came with the house, and only one of the six burners is now working. The space is 48 inches; I wanted to replace, it but the cost of the one that fits exactly the same is more than $1,500 and most of them are gas. I just can't pay this much. How can I make the 48-inch opening of the old one fit a standard 36-inch? A: You didn't mention what type of material was used for your counters, but to be honest, there is no way of patching a countertop to make an opening smaller, no matter what type of material was used originally. Anything I have ever seen tried is either unsightly, unstable or both. If budget considerations make replacing the counters impractical at this time, you have two other choices. Rather than looking for a cooktop that's an exact fit, see if you can find one that is larger than the existing opening - you can then enlarge the opening to fit. If that's not possible, I would suggest that you take the existing cooktop in to an appliance repair shop and have them get the burners working again, which will be a lot less expensive than replacing the top. If desired, you can also have an automotive body shop repaint the cooktop with a baked-on enamel that will give it a fresh new look. THOSE CLOSETS ARE TOO COLD Q: My husband and I have a fairly new home (built in 2001). The problem we have had since day one is that the closets are like refrigerators and so are a couple of the back rooms. I climbed up into the attics above these rooms and closet and there appears to be ample insulation blown in. Yet you can actually feel a "breeze" coming from wherever. Who can I contact to help fix this? A: Since you mention that the back rooms are cold in addition to the closets, there could be a problem with the heating ducts. They may not be properly connected, or they could be undersized. A problem with the duct connection at the fittings that come though the floor could also account for the draft. So, one of the first things I would do is contact a heating contractor and have the ducts checked to see if that could be the problem. While the heating contractor is there, as them to check around and see if they can determine other sources of air leakage. They may not be able to fix it, but if they see anything wrong it will be a big help. From there, you would probably want to contact an insulation and weatherization contractor help plug up whatever leaks were discovered. If you can get the bedrooms warmed up but the closets are still cold, you might want to consider removing the solid closet doors and replacing them with louvered doors. This will allow warm air to circulate into the closets and help keep them from being so cold, and is also good for bringing fresh air into those spaces. |
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| Nothing seems to fix low shower pressure By Paul Bianchina Q: I have a shower in my master bath that has had low pressure since we built the home five years ago. I've taken the head off and the pressure is still weak. All the other water sources in the house have very good pressure. A friend mentioned that the cartridge could be the culprit. Does that sound right? Is it hard to replace? I'm pretty handy and have fixed a bunch of stuff in previous homes. A: If you have good pressure everywhere else, then I would agree with your friend that the cartridge is probably the problem. Since it's been doing this since the house was new, it probably has a small piece of dirt, solder or other debris in it. Changing the cartridge is not difficult, although the exact procedure will vary between faucets and manufacturers. First, shut off the water supply. Since it's unlikely that you would have individual shutoffs for the shower alone, you'll need to shut off the main supply to the entire house. To remove the old cartridge, pop the plastic cap off the center of the handle to access the screw underneath. Remove the screw, and remove the handle. Behind that is a trim plate -- remove the screws and remove the plate. That should give you access to the cartridge, with will be held in place with screws or a threaded ring. Take the old cartridge to any retailer of plumbing supplies, and they can fix you up with a new one. Complete reinstallation instructions will be included with the new unit. Incidentally, you can also buy repair parts to rebuild the existing cartridge, but I would recommend spending a little extra and simply replacing the entire cartridge unit. Before installing the new cartridge, I would recommend flushing the valve to be sure you've removed all the debris inside. With the cartridge still out, have someone slowly turn the water back on. Don't turn it all the way back on, because that will generate quite a stream. Watch the water as it comes back on, and you should see a strong, steady flow begin. Assuming it does, have your helper shut the water right back off again, then proceed with the cartridge replacement. If the cartridge replacement doesn't fix the problem, then you could have some type of obstruction in the water lines leading to the shower. In that case, I would recommend having a good plumber come and take a look -- if possible, use the same person who plumbed the house originally, since they'll know right where to look. How do I get that old epoxy paint off? Q: I hired a contractor to put an epoxy on my garage floor. When the epoxy was being installed the contractor asked if I wanted it to end at the point the garage door hits the concrete or run to the end of the concrete slab, which extends about 4 inches beyond the point the garage door touches down. I opted to have the epoxy extend beyond the door. The problem now is that the 4 inches of epoxy outside the door has discolored (yellowed) and now looks poor. My question is -- is there a way to remove the 4 inches of epoxy? Thanks for any help; I really enjoy your column. A: One of the great things about epoxy paint is that it's virtually a permanent coating. In a situation like yours, however, that's also its drawback -- it's very tough to remove. Epoxy garage-floor coatings are also not suitable for exterior use, so I'm a little surprised that the contractor even suggested painting it in an area that's exposed to the elements. Since we're not talking about a large area, my suggestion would be to sand the epoxy off. Use a pad sander or orbital sander with 60- or 80-grit paper, and use a strip of wood or other material to create a straight line that you can sand up to where you want the paint to stop. Be sure to wear both eye protection and a respirator while sanding. After sanding and cleaning the strip of concrete that will extend beyond the garage door, you can apply an exterior concrete sealer to it that will both protect the concrete and enhance its appearance. I also would suggest that you consider installing a vinyl garage-door sill strip on the concrete where the door meets the floor. This will create a visual break between the inside and outside, as well as providing you with some additional wind and water protection at the bottom of the door. Garage door sills are available at many home centers, as well as through garage-door dealers. They're easy to install -- simply cut the material to length and glue it in place. Complete instructions will be included with the sill strip. |
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| Green TV By Elyse Umlauf-Garneau The June transition to digital TV promises improved viewing, but it also could trigger a wave of abandoned TV sets as people use the opportunity to upgrade to bigger, sleeker TVs. If you’re committed to making green choices, there are several topics to consider. They include: Energy -- Visit http://mygreenelectronics.com/EnergyCalculator.aspx to see how much energy your TV, DVD players and satellite boxes are chewing up. The EPA estimates that such gear represents about 10 percent of a household’s annual electricity bill. If you decide that reuse is the best approach and now isn’t the time for upgrades, you’ll need a converter box to allow old analog TVs to work. Consider energy efficient digital converter boxes, such as those offered by ENERGY STAR. They consume no more than eight watts in the on mode. New TVs -- Energy efficiency standards have been toughened in recent years. The simplest approach, according to Rozanne Weissman, senior director of consumer campaigns for the Washington, D.C.-based Alliance to Save Energy, is to buy ENERGY STAR -qualified TVs. “They use less energy in both the stand-by and on/off modes and they’re available in every price category.” According to ENERGY STAR, TVs with such labels consume about 30 percent less energy than standard units. As you’re shopping, however, keep in mind that the bigger the TV is, the more energy it will consume. Ditching old TVs -- Because they’re loaded with environmental dangers, including lead, it’s not safe to simply dump old TVs into the trash. Thus, part of the equation in getting a new TV involves finding new homes for old sets. After all, TVs contain resources—metal and glass, for example--that use energy for their mining and manufacturing. By recycling you do a good turn for Mother Nature by allowing recyclers to extract reusable materials, dispose of hazardous materials safely, and cut greenhouse gas emissions that stem from manufacturing processes. It may not seem like tossing one TV would be too treacherous, but when multiple TVs reach the end of their life, the amount of e-waste generated can be staggering. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, consumer electronics, such as TVs, computers, phones, and so forth, comprise two percent of the municipal solid waste stream. Though it seems like a small figure, such waste added up to about 2.5 million tons in 2007. Ancillary products -- Check with cable and satellite TV providers to see whether they offer energy efficient equipment. Again, when shopping for new DVD players or other add-ons, seek out the ENERGY STAR label. Phantom power -- Be wary of power usage of add-ons like satellite dishes, TIVO, and gaming products, even when they’re off. Resources: ENERGY STAR TVs -- Locate efficient TVs, DVDs by brand and type at: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=find_a_product.showProductGroup&pgw_code=TV ENERGY STAR Labels -- When shopping, compare savings by interpreting the information on the energy labels properly. Consumer Reports offers a quick guide at http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/home-garden/resource-center/energy-star-has-lost-some-luster/how-to-interpret-the-energyguide-label-/energy-star-interpreting-energyguide-label.htm Recyclers -- Punch in your ZIP code www.earth911.com to find charities and recycling centers that accept TVs or locate California e-recyclers at www.erecycle.org. -Digital TV—Questions about DTV are answered at http://www.dtvanswers.com/ TV manufacturers -- Several companies, including Sony, and Panasonic, Sharp, and Toshiba are participating in an Environmental Protection Agency program http://www.epa.gov/epawaste/conserve/materials/ecycling/tv-challenge.htm to increase e-waste recycling and they’ve established centers to collect their brands for free and the recycling of other brands for a small fee. |
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| Overwhelmed by kitchen floor options? By Paul Bianchina The floor in your kitchen has to wear a lot of hats. It has to be able to withstand the rigors of lots of foot traffic. It needs to be water-resistant and be able to stand up to repeated cleanings. It has to be able to withstand grease, spills, drips and other indignities -- and it has to look good doing it! When you're ready to shop for a kitchen floor that can handle all those demands, you'll find that you have several choices. There's probably no single "perfect" flooring material, but by doing a little homework, you're sure to find one that will work beautifully in your kitchen. Here are some great choices to consider, along with some of the pros and cons of each: Sheet Vinyl: Sheet vinyl flooring is one of the most common choices for a kitchen floor. Sheet vinyl is very resistant to spills, grease and dirt, is very water resistant, and is also very easy to clean. There are hundreds if not thousands of patterns, styles and colors to choose from, as well as different weights and thicknesses. Vinyl sheets are available in 6-foot and 12-foot-wide rolls, so it's possible to complete most kitchens with few or no seams. It's also one of the less expensive flooring options, so it's easier on your wallet and also makes it a little easier to change if you redecorate. On the down side, vinyl flooring is prone to wear and scratching over time, especially with the lower-end materials. And from a resale value, it may lack the appeal of some of the more expensive floors. Vinyl Tiles: Vinyl tiles have some of the virtues of sheet vinyl, such as water resistance, ease of cleaning and low cost. Because these are individual tiles, they are the easiest of all the flooring products for the do-it-yourselfer to install. Another advantage is that if damage occurs, you can easily take up and replace the individual damaged tiles, without having to incur the cost of replacing the entire floor. There is a very definite downside with vinyl tiles, however, and that is the dozens of dirt-catching seams you end up with. Vinyl tiles also have probably the lowest overall appeal from a resale standpoint. Ceramic Tiles: Ceramic tile is one of the best overall choices for a kitchen floor. These hard, durable tiles will stand up to all sorts of abuse, from spills to heavy appliances, and the tile is completely waterproof as well. Ceramic tile is hard to beat from a decorating standpoint, as there are thousands of size, color and pattern choices available. You can also mix different types or colors of tile to form patterns, borders or even pictures. A quality ceramic tile floor, especially some of the new travertines in large squares, are currently very popular and will add to a home's resale value. The downsides of ceramic tile seem to be a matter of personal preference. For one thing, tile is the hardest and coldest of the floors underfoot, with none of the resiliency of vinyl or wood. This can be offset to some degree through the addition of small, non-skid area rugs, and if you want to really warm up the floor, you can have radiant heat cables installed underneath the tiles during installation. The other issue that some people have with tile are the grout lines, which are a little harder to clean than the tiles themselves. Again, this problem can be minimized by using larger tiles with small grout spaces between them, and by making sure that the grout is sealed after installation. Laminate Floors: Laminate flooring has become increasingly popular in the kitchen. There are dozens of patterns and colors now available, some of which mimic the look of real wood quite well. The laminate can be chosen to blend or contrast with the wood in the cabinets, and you can mix in some darker strips to create accents and borders if desired. Laminate floors have some "spring" to them, making them one of the softer and more comfortable floors to stand on. They can also be a very good do-it-yourself project, and a well-selected and well-installed laminate floor will also add resale value. If you have a kitchen that sees a lot of use, especially if chairs or bar stools are present, the laminate can be prone to scratching. Laminate also requires specific cleaning products for best results and longest life, and may not stand up to a lot of water over time. Hardwood Floors: Hardwood floors have long been a classic and desirable feature in living rooms and other areas of the house, but it was only through relatively recent advances in the quality of polyurethane finishes that wood has found its way into the kitchen as well. Hardwood is beautiful, durable, compliments virtually any style of kitchen, and typically adds to the resale value, although some people are still a little leery of it in the kitchen. Hardwood flooring is not a very good do-it-yourself project, and requires proper sanding and finishing to look good and to hold up in the kitchen. It also has some of the same drawbacks as laminate, requiring special cleaners as opposed to simple damp mopping, and is prone to scratching and damage from excessive water. |
| Home inspection: Don't buy without it By Dian Hymer Easton v. Strassburger, a landmark California lawsuit in 1984, changed the way residential housing defects were dealt with when a home is sold. Before the Easton case, the credo was buyer beware. Today, few buyers would consider buying a home without first having it inspected by a competent home inspector. Since 1984, California real estate agents have been required to disclose known defects to a buyer, as well as defects they could have known about by using reasonable due diligence. Many other states have followed suit and require real estate agents to disclose material defects. Even though the law favors the buyer in disclosure disputes, buyers can reasonably be expected to protect themselves by having qualified professionals inspect the property before they buy it. The home inspection business came alive in the 1980s in order for buyers, sellers and agents to competently deal with disclosing property defects. Texas was the first state to license home inspectors. In many states, including California, home inspectors are not required to be licensed. There are, however, two major home inspection industry trade associations that require their members to comply with a certain standard of care. They are the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) and the National Association of Home Inspectors (NAHI). States also have trade organizations, like the California Real Estate Home Inspector Association (CREIA). HOUSE HUNTING TIP: In order to make sure that you get a thorough home inspection, use the best home inspector you can find in your area. Your real estate agent can give you recommendations. It's also a good idea to ask recent buyers in your area who they used for a home inspection. Find out if they were satisfied with the inspection. Or, did they later discover problems that were missed? It's important that buyers be present for the inspection. A home inspection can take several hours depending on the age and size of the house. If you can't attend the entire inspection, plan to show up at the end of the inspection. This way you can walk through the property with the inspector for a recap of the findings. Keep in mind that home inspectors aren't hired to comment on aesthetical issues. It's the home inspector's job to point out defects. All homes have defects, even new ones. What you need to know before you go through with a purchase is (1) the seriousness of the defect; (2) how much it will cost to repair; and (3) how soon it needs to be done. Ask the inspector to prioritize the findings so that you can evaluate the cost consequences. Your goal is to have a complete inspection report on the property. In order for this to happen, your agent should ask the listing agent to make sure that the sellers provide easy access to attic and crawl spaces. Also, the utilities need to be turned on. Also, request that the sellers and their agent not attend the inspection. This way you can talk freely with your inspector. If it's inconvenient for sellers to leave, reschedule the appointment. The home inspection should cover the major systems from roof to foundation and everything in between. However, home inspectors usually aren't licensed wood-destroying pest inspectors. The report will be limited to what is visible. It probably won't cover environmental hazards or irrigation systems, spas, swimming pools, septic systems and other components that should be inspected. For this reason, it's a good idea to start the inspection process as soon as possible after you have an accepted offer. The home inspector might recommend further inspections of systems that he inspects, like the furnace. THE CLOSING: Don't make the mistake of ignoring an inspector's recommendation for a further inspection. It could lead to serious trouble later. |
| Heavy lifting help for do-it-yourselfers By Paul Bianchina No matter what type of home improvement project you're undertaking, one thing is pretty consistent -- building materials are heavy! From sheets of plywood to wooden beams, lifting and moving these materials can be a real backbreaker, especially when you're working alone. With that in mind, here are three great new tools that can really help you take a load off! PullzAll (Warn Works, $249.95): Many of you have probably used a come-along at some point in time. Basically a steel cable with hooks at each end and a ratcheting handle in the middle, a come-along uses your muscle power to reel in the cable, pulling whatever load it's attached to along with it. But what if you could move even heavier loads, and do it with virtually no effort at all? That's the concept of the new PullzAll from Warn Works, the people that make those top-of-the-line vehicle winches. The PullzAll works similar to the traditional come-along, but with an electric motor in place of the ratchet and handle. At one end of the small, powerful motor is a swiveling safety hook, and at the other end is a cable spool with 15 feet of 7/32-inch aircraft-grade wire rope and another industrial-grade safety hook. The motor has a top-mounted handle and variable-speed trigger, and a simple push switch changes the motor direction between forward and reverse. To use the PullzAll, it's simply a matter of hooking the motor to a stationary support, then pulling the trigger to unspool the necessary cable. Hook the cable to the object being pulled or lifted, reverse the motor direction, and pull the trigger again to reel in the cable. The motor has a pulling capacity of 1,000 pounds, and has a built-in electronic load limiter and visual strain readout to help you safely monitor the load. This is truly a tough, well-built workhorse of a tool with a wide range of applications from lifting beams to stretching fencing to moving heavy equipment around in the shop. And if you're out there working where no power is available, there's also a rechargeable 24-volt model for around $479. For more information and to see the tool in action, visit www.warnworks.com. Gorilla Gripper (Landon Innovations, $49.95): The Gorilla Gripper, which is designed to lift and carry heavy sheets of plywood or drywall, is one of those "why didn't I think of that?" kind of tools. It's simple, tough, and best of all, it really works. The Gorilla Gripper has a padded handle and two movable padded plates, all made from aircraft-grade aluminum. Simply slip the two plates over the top edge of any sheet material from 3/8 inch to 1 1/8 inches thick, grab the handle, and straighten your legs. The movable jaws grip the panel securely, and are self-adjusting to different thicknesses. So, instead of wrestling to find a way to get your hand under the panel to lift it and then struggling to carry it without losing your balance, Gorilla Gripper lets you easily lift the panel off the ground and then carry it with a comfortable, overhand grip. It's like having a carrying handle on those big, heavy, awkward sheets of material that you always dread having to move. The Gorilla Gripper will lift drywall (even two sheets at a time), plywood, OSB, siding, MDF and just about any other sheet of building material. You'll save a lot of wear and tear on your back, neck, arms and hands, as well as on the sheets of material, and make a tough job that much easier. Check out www.gorillagripper.com for more information. LegUp (Landon Innovations, $49.95): Here's another clever tool from the same people who invented the Gorilla Gripper. Anyone who's ever had to lift a sheet of plywood or other material up onto a table saw and get it correctly aligned for cutting knows what a chore that can be. You have to manhandle the sheet onto the saw table by lifting and twisting at the same time -- always a risky move for your back muscles -- then get it over against the fence and moving forward into the blade, all without damaging yourself or the material. LegUp is designed to help you complete that task safely and with a lot more control and a lot less effort. The LegUp is a long, pivoting, powder-coated steel arm with a hook at the bottom, attached to the side of your table saw with a hinge mechanism. Simply set the edge of the plywood sheet onto the hook, then use the natural leverage of the sheet to tip it over and onto the table saw. As you slide the sheet over against the fence, the hook drops back down on its own, safely out of the way and in position for the next sheet. The sheet remains much more under control, and the risk of hurting your back is greatly reduced. The LegUp comes with two different adaptors to fit a variety of different table saws. Installation is quick and easy, and is basically just a matter of choosing the right adaptor and then attaching the hinge to the table saw with a single bolt and lock nut. You can see a video of this simple and effective tool, plus get ordering information, at www.gorillagripper.com. |
| Fearing default, reverse mortgage a last resort By Benny Kass DEAR BENNY: My mother has a mortgage for about $26,000. Her home is worth considerably more (how much I'm not sure), but given today's housing market the value has probably declined. I do know that the terms of the loan are such that she's paying only the interest monthly -- she's not paying down the principal. If she defaults on the loan, can the bank compel her to sell her home? Would they be entitled to the $26,000 plus fees? And if so, any idea what those fees would be? What options does she have regarding a different loan or repayment schedule? She's 75 and lives with my brother who has diabetes and for the time being is sick and will be on disability -- so his income will be less than it has been (and may at some point disappear altogether). She has been able to pay only the bills with her Social Security; his income bought consumables like groceries and gas. I'm worried about her ability to pay her debts as well as have money to live without the possibility of her defaulting on her home loan -- and what that might entail. –Liz DEAR LIZ: The simple answer to your question is that if your mother is unable to make her monthly payments, the bank has the right to foreclose on the house. This means that a stranger -- or the bank itself -- will buy the property at a foreclosure sale, and your mother and brother may be forced to move. This is the ugly reality of the current financial situation here in the United States. That does not mean, however, that the bank will, in fact, foreclose. Banks do not want to end up owning real estate, because they would have to pay the real estate taxes and insurance. Although speculators often attend these foreclosure sales, quite often the bank ends up owning the property. You should explore a number of options. First, talk with the bank and see if you can work out some form of relief -- either by way of a modification of the loan (a lower interest rate or a longer payoff time) or a moratorium on payments for several months. Second, talk to state, local and federal agencies about any programs they may have to assist people like your mother. Third, contact your local AARP office, and learn about reverse mortgages. Although I usually recommend that such a mortgage be used as a last resort, perhaps in your mother's case, she would be a prime candidate for a reverse mortgage. But if you go this route, make sure that you -- and especially your mother -- fully understand the consequences and the impact of such a mortgage when she ultimately sells or dies. One word of caution, however. In recent months, because there are a number of people who, like your mother, are having trouble paying their mortgage, there are also a number of dishonest people who have surfaced. If any reader is contacted by a stranger who promises to assist by paying off the mortgage, please be careful. Do not sign any document until it is reviewed by an independent attorney chosen by you (and not the stranger), and under no circumstances should you give that person any money. When economic times get bad, fraud runs rampant. Caveat emptor: Let the consumer beware. DEAR BENNY: We recently purchased a condo. Our association is called an HOA. Can you describe the difference? –Joe DEAR JOE: Too many people mistakenly call their condominium association a homeowner association, or HOA. There is a basic difference, but terminology can differ from state to state. For example, an HOA could be called a planned-unit development (PUD) in one state, where in another it could be called a common-interest development (CID). Although condos and HOAs function more or less in the same way, there is a technical legal difference. In an HOA, the association holds title to the common property, while the individual members have only a membership interest in the entire association. In a condo, on the other hand, the association owns nothing: Each condo owner owns a percentage interest in the common property -- but the elected board of directors are empowered to make the major decisions for the association owners. You should look at your legal documents to determine exactly what your association is called. DEAR BENNY: As president of a 58-unit condominium, our board is concerned about potential foreclosures in our building. Other than checking with county records, how can we find out if any of the units in our building are going into or are in foreclosure? –Marcy DEAR MARCY: State law differs in the area of foreclosure. Traditionally, if a mortgage lender is about to foreclose upon a property, it must notify all parties that have an interest in the property. That includes junior lenders and condominium associations. The purpose of requiring such notice is to allow any such parties the right to protect their own interests, and possibly bid in at the foreclosure sale. The condominium associations that I represent do get notice of foreclosure sales, and in each case, the board discusses the pros and cons of trying to buy the unit at the sale. Pros: The board may need a unit for its own purposes (such as an office for management or a health club facility); this may be a good financial arrangement for the association, so that it can either rent it or sell it later at a profit. Cons: The board will have to come up with the money to pay off the lender based on the foreclosure sales price. Additionally, there may be other outstanding liens and encumbrances on the property -- such as tax or water bills -- that are not wiped out by the sale. You should discuss this issue with your association lawyer. DEAR BENNY: In August 2007 we bought our first house. More than a year later, our local gas company showed up on our property to inform us that a gas pipe line runs through our property, and that they have an easement going back to 1968. They told us they will cut down the trees on their easement area and will not restore our landscaping. We went to court, but our case was dismissed. In November, the gas company showed up with heavy machines and equipment, and some 30 trees approximately 20-30 years old were cut, destroying our landscaping. We are afraid that water drainage to our property was destroyed and water will start coming into our basement. When we bought our home, the seller disclosed to us that the house had been treated for termites in the past; how old the roof, furnace, air conditioner, etc., were; and we were told that we were given full disclosure. So we signed a contract. If we had been told on the disclosure that there were interstate pipelines present and that we could not use 90 percent of the backyard the way we wanted, we never would have signed that contract. Where we can go for help? Is there any law that can protect us? –Tanya DEAR TANYA: Some states require that home sellers disclose a number of things, including whether there are any easements on the property. You may have a case against your seller, but an attorney would have to advise you on the status of your specific state's laws. When you went to settlement (called escrow in some western states) did you obtain an owner's title insurance policy? If so, you should read that policy very carefully to determine whether the easement was disclosed. In addition to a possible remedy against the seller, I see two other possibilities. First, if the title policy did not disclose the existence of the pipeline easement (which should be a matter of public record), you have a possible claim against the title insurance company. On the other hand, if the policy specifically lists the easement, then you have a possible claim against the company (or attorney) who conducted the settlement. That information should have been disclosed to you before -- or at the very least -- at closing. Finally, the utility is regulated by some state regulatory agency. You may not be able to restore the trees, but you may be able to get the agency to assist in getting the utility company to restore your backyard -- and to determine if the actions of the company have impacted on your water drainage. Benny L. Kass is a practicing attorney in Washington, D.C., and Maryland. No legal relationship is created by this column. |
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